We have just returned from climbing up snow and ice to 4700 m or 15600 ft - to just above Pashtukov rocks. What started out as a gentle climb turned into quite the day. The weather turned quite bad at about 14000 ft and the wind ripped at faces. What was initially rain turned to ice pellets which were coming in sideways at 50 kph. A bunch of climbers were descending as we headed up - they had aborted their summit attempts to go back to safety. In fact we met four climbers who came off the glacier to the right of our route - they had become lost in the bad conditions and only just made it back to the main route. Visibility had been reduced to about 40 ft as we reached the top of the rocks, and we decided to call it quits and head back down.
It was quite amazing to be inside of a ping pong ball for a few hours. It is better to back at Leaprus in our cosy bunks though! You can see the video below.
We are currently meant to be going for the summit tonight but the weather does not look good. We will see how it evolves over the next 4-6 hours and make our decision then.
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Adam MacDonald, David Banman and their worldwide climbing adventures!